Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Half of the world's remaining mountain gorillas live in this ancient rainforest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site draped across the Albertine Rift. Trekking begins at dawn with a briefing from your guide, then follows the trackers into dense, mist-hung undergrowth. The moment you find a habituated family — a silverback at rest, juveniles wheeling through the vines — you are granted one hour in their company. The forest is 25,000 years old and holds over 350 bird species alongside the gorillas.

The Rwandan flank of the Virungas, where Dian Fossey did her work and where mountain gorilla tourism was effectively invented. Treks are shorter and better organised than Bwindi's, on bamboo slopes beneath a chain of volcanoes, and the park is a two-hour drive from Kigali. Permits are the most expensive in the region by design — the price is the conservation model, and it has worked.

Uganda's largest and oldest park, split by the Victoria Nile as it forces itself through a seven-metre gorge and detonates into the Rift Valley below. Game drives on the northern bank turn up elephant, giraffe, buffalo and lion across open savanna; the afternoon launch cruise runs to the foot of the falls past hippo pods and basking crocodile. The Delta stretch is one of the last reliable places on earth to see the shoebill.